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Once you get a grasp of how the game controller collects and stores the inputs, formatting the data for USB is the next step. Regardless of the controller that is used, there should be plenty of information on the Internet about how its data is encoded.
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More modern controllers even integrated an accelerometer, which gives the user greater variety of control through body movement. Later generations of controllers integrated analog-to-digital converters (ADCs) to sense how far a joystick was moved from its resting position, thus allowing for different movement speeds instead of the “on-off” control of a simple button. Latching the data every few milliseconds, the game console could easily clock out and interpret which buttons were pressed. Gamepads from the 1980s and early 1990s used simple pushbuttons connected to an 8-bit or 16-bit latch. These essential criteria have been implemented in various ways with differing components and complexity. The mouse needs two buttons for left and right click, and a means to control horizontal and vertical movement. The basic requirements to make a USB mouse are simple. The know-how to make a USB mouse or keyboard out of old components and spare parts can be both a fun and informative way to add functionality to any embedded system with user-control inputs.
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However, with just a little modification, these controllers can be given new life and repurposed to serve as a nifty interface with modern computers. Sadly, this means that, even though they are still fully functional, most of my old game controllers are doomed to collecting dust on the shelf. Many of the older game consoles were designed with nonstandard proprietary connectors. As the latest and greatest gaming systems debut every few years, my stockpile of old video game controllers grows at the same pace.